Building the NAZA F550 Hexacopter

Building the NAZA F550 Hexacopter - Pre-steps

So, I've ordered, and received the components (see my earlier post) to build my F550 Hexacoptor. So, now it was time to start building.

I ordered 3 pairs of Multistar 2212 920KV Motors. I got 3 boxes with the motor pairs.

The Multistar 2212 920KV CW/CCW Motor pairs with Props

The package came with the 3mm hex nuts to mount the motors, and bullet connectors with heat-shrink tubes to connect to the ESCs as well.

The propellers are 9043, and each box has an extra pair of props as well.

The 9043 Propellers that comes with the Multistar Motors

I got 6 Multistar 30A ESCs. They're smaller than I thought, which is even better.

The Multistar 30A ESCs

Since I couldn't ship Li-Pos from HobbyKing, I managed to find a 3S 5500mAh 40C Li-Po from the local hobby shop - Hobby Tech Lanka.

The 3S 5500mAh 40C Li-Po from HTL

I already had the F550 Frame and the NAZA-M Lite.

Bought the following items also before starting the build.

A XT60 Connector with wires (make sure you consider the correct gauge of the wire)
Double-sided Foam Tape (for mounting the components to the frame)
Wire Tape (for insulation)
Heat-shrink Tubes, if needed
Cable ties (for cable management)

You also need a good quality soldering iron, solder, and flux.

But, before you start soldering, there's one important check to be done.

Since the bottom plate of the F550 Frame acts as the power distribution, it's always best to check whether there are any short-circuits on the frame before you begin. Any short-circuit might lead to damage to the electronics, fire, or even explosions of the Li-Po battery.

To check the frame, get the bottom plate (the one with the '+' and '-' pads), and use a multimeter to first check whether the '+' pads are not short-circuited to the '-' pads. Then, make sure the '+' pads are all connected together, and the same with the '-' pads.

The bottom plate of the F550 Frame

Once we verified that, we are ready to start the build.

Comments

Selecting the Correct Gauge Wires for your RC Models

When we are building RC models (aircrafts, multicopters etc.), something we typically overlook is what type of wires to use to distribute power in them. Usually, we try to reduce the weight of the model, so we tend to go with smaller wires. But, we cant expect to put in small circuit-wires and have them handle the amount of power needed. If you look at the wires that comes in the output leads of a Li-Po, or the wires that comes on a standard XT Jack, you'll notice that they're quite huge. Large gauge wires on a Li-Po and XT connectors These need to be huge to handle the amount of amperage that goes through them. So, we should also consider the amperage, and the length of wire needed when selecting the size (gauge) of the wires.

What do the prop size numbers mean?

Have you been trying to shop for propellers - either online or at a hobby shop - and got confused of the numbering used to denote the size of the propellers? You see things like " 10 x 4.5 CW ", or " 8055 CCW ". What do these numbers mean? A 8 x 4.5 CW and CCW Propeller Set It's actually quite simple once you figure it out. The first number denotes the diameter of the prop (length from tip-to-tip). The second number denotes the pitch of the prop. Here, the pitch is denoted as a length, not a angle. Let's see how that works.

Make Your Own Jupmer Wires for Electronic Breadboard

Note: After starting the 'Tips and Tricks' section I wanted to do my own 'tutorial'. So, here's my first attempt of it. Hope you all find this useful, and sorry about the low quality of the photographs, my camera is just a 2MP. If you, like me, like to experiment with electronics, then you'd probably use an electronic breadboard (also known as protoboard or project-board). These allow you to construct and test circuits without the need to permanently soldering the components. The problem with these is that you have to use wires to connect the components across the bus lines. We normally use single core circuit wires for this purpose, but they tend to bend, break and get stuck in the breadboard when used repeatedly. This may cause short circuiting the bus lines and could be the failure of your circuit. A better option would be to buy a 'Breadboard Jumper Wire' kit, such as this. A Breadboard Jumper Wire Kit These have sets of wire of differ...

Code 42

Search This Blog